Where You Can See Forever

"It's cold out there," said Andy, settling into the fuzzy bucket seat of Little Red. "My ears are numb."

"And my nose... and fingers from holding the camera," I added. We had walked several overlook trails at Simpson Reef of Cape Arago, watching the seals and listening to California and Stellar sea lions communicate. We picked out the males, barking at their harems that were lolling on the rocks as the tide washed in.

"Those tiny rocks are all part of the National Wildlife Refuge," said Andy. "It protects nesting areas of birds as well."

We walked a loop trail of cliff, cliff steps and beach at Oregon Coast National Wildlife Refuges in Bandon. One of the memorial benches said, "From here you can see forever." I looked out over the endless expanse of saltwater. The tide was just coming in, and waves broke on the rocky islands offshore, flooding into the estuaries. A prime viewing area for migrating birds in September and migrating grey whales in December, the overlooks offered us spectacular views of the roiling ocean and the rugged coastline... uninhabited, relentless.

Rain moved in near Cape Blanco Lighthouse, the oldest standing lighthouse on the Oregon coast. Even the geese and seagulls struggled against the wind. Walking in the dip between hills, it was all I could do to hold the camera steady.

"There's no taking away from it," said Andy. "The Oregon coast is spectacular, rain or shine, and the Oregonians have been smart enough to protect so much of it."

In the 1870's, this area was the home of the Hughes family, now buried at the top of the hill in a pioneer cemetery. The wind in a few solitary trees whispered low. "No wonder this is a place to stay," I thought out loud. From there they can see forever.