Deer and turkeys browsed by the park roadside early this morning. Showing no fear, they hardly moved when we drove by on Cave City Road before our 10:15 a.m. four-hour Mammoth Cave Grand Tour. White stratus clouds streaked the blue sky overhead, as we meandered along narrow Park Ridge Road to Flint Ridge. "The color is pretty," said Andy. "The leaves are at peak here."
Floyd Collins was buried in Mammoth Cemetery, adjoining Mammoth Cave Baptist Church, the cornerstone of life in Flint, Kentucky, until the National Park Service started acquiring land for the park in 1926. Willingly or unwillingly, the residents moved out, and the forest reclaimed the hills. Collins, who died when Sand Cave that he was exploring collapsed, is credited with the discovery of Crystal Cave, as well as exploring other terrain in the vicinity.
We walked several short trails near the Visitor Center and read the interpretive signs. "This says that people probably used these caves as temporary shelters 10,00 to 2,000 years ago," I told Andy. "A story says Mammoth Cave was rediscovered in 1790 by John Houchen, a bear hunter. It was said he shot the bear and saw it disappear into the opening of the cave."
We walked several short trails near the Visitor Center and read the interpretive signs. "This says that people probably used these caves as temporary shelters 10,00 to 2,000 years ago," I told Andy. "A story says Mammoth Cave was rediscovered in 1790 by John Houchen, a bear hunter. It was said he shot the bear and saw it disappear into the opening of the cave."
A wrought iron fence surrounded Old Guide Cemetery, the burial site of Stephen Bishop, an African American tour guide, who explored much of Mammoth Cave with light from grease pots.
At Sunset Point we learned that layers of sandstone and shale on the surface eroded more slowly than the limestone underneath, creating sink holes and underground rooms. The Green River ate away at the limestone, forming the passageways.
Then we met our tour group for Mammoth Cave Grand Tour and boarded two buses for the ride to the Grand Entrance. Ranger Bobby asked, "Has anyone been in a cave or mine in the last six years? We check because of white nose syndrome that affects bats. It's been found as far west as Oklahoma and has killed more than a million hibernating bats since 2006. We only have about 10,000 bats here from nine different species, and we don't know whether there is any white nose syndrome. But we are still doing everything we can to control its spread."
The Lysol foam mat outside the bus squished and bubbled as we stepped across. "That's to kill any fungus that causes white-nose syndrome in bats," said Ranger Bobby. "It's voluntary; it's just Lysol foam, our effort to protect the bat populations everywhere."
Turkeys still browsed beside the pavement, as we drove the Brownsville Road. They hardly moved when Andy pulled over for pictures.
At Joppa Church, propped up by poles outside, we stepped in delicately and photographed the old wood stove, centrally located to warm the congregation on cold Sunday mornings. Then the lengthy services could have been "hot."
Turnhole Bend Trail, a half-mile through hardwood forests, wound around several huge sink holes to the Turnhole Bend Sink and Turnhole Bend Spring where water empties into the Green River.
The Cedar Sink Trail map deceived us. We thought it was an .8-mile walk in the woods. Instead, it led to a steep loop trail into the sink hole with at least 70 steps back up. A pool of green water on one side and black water on the other marked cave seeps that ultimately spilled into the Green River.
Just outside the park boundary the road passed through Pig. "It's a nice little town," said Andy. There were some nice houses in Pig. Imagine that!
If the leaves were not a spectacular orange, tonight's sky was. Just above the silhouetted trees, the clouds caught fire in a glorious fall display. By the show tonight, the weather tomorrow should be lovely, in spite of predictions for rain.
At Sunset Point we learned that layers of sandstone and shale on the surface eroded more slowly than the limestone underneath, creating sink holes and underground rooms. The Green River ate away at the limestone, forming the passageways.
Then we met our tour group for Mammoth Cave Grand Tour and boarded two buses for the ride to the Grand Entrance. Ranger Bobby asked, "Has anyone been in a cave or mine in the last six years? We check because of white nose syndrome that affects bats. It's been found as far west as Oklahoma and has killed more than a million hibernating bats since 2006. We only have about 10,000 bats here from nine different species, and we don't know whether there is any white nose syndrome. But we are still doing everything we can to control its spread."
Then Ranger Bobby introduced us to the cave. "I'm going to challenge you," he said. "I want you to think about why Mammoth Cave is unique."
Historically, Mammoth Cave became the 26th national park in 1941. Today, 392 miles of cave have been mapped. In his soft southern drawl, Ranger Bobby highlighted some of the background on what he described as the "geological" tour. "This part of Kentucky is called the 'Land of 10,000 Sink Holes,'" he said. "That's where the water comes in, and we know that water creates caves. Dripping water makes the formations, and this cave has few formations. They only appear in the last 300 feet before we exit. But why is Mammoth Cave unique?"
Later, near the end of our four-hour, four-mile walking tour, Ranger Bobby explained that glaciers actually contributed to the uniqueness of Mammoth Cave. As glaciers inched south, they pushed sand and gravel ahead of them, eventually melting and overflowing this part of Kentucky. Those glacial tributaries brought in a 50-foot layer of sand, silt and shale, creating a cap roof over the limestone. "It's like the shingles on your house," said Ranger Bobby. "The cap, like the shingles, keeps water out. Only the sink holes let the water in. Hence, a dry cave and no formations. Over the last 300 feet of cave, there is no cap. It's the side of a big hill and water seeps down. Hence, formations."
The Green River flowing underground carved away the limestone. So the sandstone cap produced by the glaciers, actually preserved Mammoth Cave as well, instead of letting water in to wash away the upper layers. That's what made Mammoth the longest cave in the world.
In addition, we learned a little about the history of the cave, which has been explored for hundreds of years. The year 1941, when the area actually became a national park, marked the end of a way of life for 507 families. Some left willingly, others accepted about $25 an acre, and some were evicted by eminent domain. "Some were very upset," said Ranger Bobby. "This land had been settled for 100 years, and 80 cemeteries still exist within the park. Families had ancestral ties. But the federal government demanded 30,000 acres be obtained before the area could be considered a national park, so it took a while."
Historically, Mammoth Cave became the 26th national park in 1941. Today, 392 miles of cave have been mapped. In his soft southern drawl, Ranger Bobby highlighted some of the background on what he described as the "geological" tour. "This part of Kentucky is called the 'Land of 10,000 Sink Holes,'" he said. "That's where the water comes in, and we know that water creates caves. Dripping water makes the formations, and this cave has few formations. They only appear in the last 300 feet before we exit. But why is Mammoth Cave unique?"
Later, near the end of our four-hour, four-mile walking tour, Ranger Bobby explained that glaciers actually contributed to the uniqueness of Mammoth Cave. As glaciers inched south, they pushed sand and gravel ahead of them, eventually melting and overflowing this part of Kentucky. Those glacial tributaries brought in a 50-foot layer of sand, silt and shale, creating a cap roof over the limestone. "It's like the shingles on your house," said Ranger Bobby. "The cap, like the shingles, keeps water out. Only the sink holes let the water in. Hence, a dry cave and no formations. Over the last 300 feet of cave, there is no cap. It's the side of a big hill and water seeps down. Hence, formations."
The Green River flowing underground carved away the limestone. So the sandstone cap produced by the glaciers, actually preserved Mammoth Cave as well, instead of letting water in to wash away the upper layers. That's what made Mammoth the longest cave in the world.In addition, we learned a little about the history of the cave, which has been explored for hundreds of years. The year 1941, when the area actually became a national park, marked the end of a way of life for 507 families. Some left willingly, others accepted about $25 an acre, and some were evicted by eminent domain. "Some were very upset," said Ranger Bobby. "This land had been settled for 100 years, and 80 cemeteries still exist within the park. Families had ancestral ties. But the federal government demanded 30,000 acres be obtained before the area could be considered a national park, so it took a while."
Once the land was purchased, the state of Kentucky sold it to the federal government for $1.00. "It had to be a monetary transaction by law," explained Ranger Bobby.
The Civilian Conservation Corps planted 75,000 trees to reforest the denuded farmland.
He explained that civilians with ancestral ties can still be buried in any of the 80 cemeteries in Mammoth Cave National Park, and because of the arrangement between Kentucky and the federal government, no entry fee will ever be charged for the park itself. "The same arrangement is true of the Smokies and the Blue Ridge," said Ranger Bobby.
We saw the name Irene Ryan scratched in the stone wall. "She was Granny on The Beverly Hillbillies years ago," said Ranger Bobby. The American actress, Irene Ryan (1902-1973), born Jessie Irene Noblett and nicknamed Reenie, had made her name as a character actress on the popular television sit-com in 1962. "That was probably from a tour when it was self guiding in the 1960's. Many of the names are from slaves who came in with oil lamps and candles."
He explained that civilians with ancestral ties can still be buried in any of the 80 cemeteries in Mammoth Cave National Park, and because of the arrangement between Kentucky and the federal government, no entry fee will ever be charged for the park itself. "The same arrangement is true of the Smokies and the Blue Ridge," said Ranger Bobby.
We saw the name Irene Ryan scratched in the stone wall. "She was Granny on The Beverly Hillbillies years ago," said Ranger Bobby. The American actress, Irene Ryan (1902-1973), born Jessie Irene Noblett and nicknamed Reenie, had made her name as a character actress on the popular television sit-com in 1962. "That was probably from a tour when it was self guiding in the 1960's. Many of the names are from slaves who came in with oil lamps and candles."
"Do you ever have cave-ins?" asked one lady during a rest break.
Ranger Bobby pretended fear and glanced all around. Then he answered, "No. Water causes cave-ins, and this is a dry cave. What rock piles you see inside occurred thousands of years ago when the river dropped. The river and its tributaries are 400 feet below the surface now."
We said good-bye as Ranger Colleen, the sweeper, turned out the lights and ushered the last of the 50 some people in our tour group out the door.
The Lysol foam mat outside the bus squished and bubbled as we stepped across. "That's to kill any fungus that causes white-nose syndrome in bats," said Ranger Bobby. "It's voluntary; it's just Lysol foam, our effort to protect the bat populations everywhere."
Turkeys still browsed beside the pavement, as we drove the Brownsville Road. They hardly moved when Andy pulled over for pictures.
At Joppa Church, propped up by poles outside, we stepped in delicately and photographed the old wood stove, centrally located to warm the congregation on cold Sunday mornings. Then the lengthy services could have been "hot."
Turnhole Bend Trail, a half-mile through hardwood forests, wound around several huge sink holes to the Turnhole Bend Sink and Turnhole Bend Spring where water empties into the Green River.The Cedar Sink Trail map deceived us. We thought it was an .8-mile walk in the woods. Instead, it led to a steep loop trail into the sink hole with at least 70 steps back up. A pool of green water on one side and black water on the other marked cave seeps that ultimately spilled into the Green River.
Just outside the park boundary the road passed through Pig. "It's a nice little town," said Andy. There were some nice houses in Pig. Imagine that!
If the leaves were not a spectacular orange, tonight's sky was. Just above the silhouetted trees, the clouds caught fire in a glorious fall display. By the show tonight, the weather tomorrow should be lovely, in spite of predictions for rain.
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