More Travels 4--Big Government

Big Government Affects Little People 

We got an early start this morning, earlier than usual anyway. It wasn't planned. Construction workers occupied most of the rooms at our motel last night. They went to bed in good time. All was quiet by 10:00 p.m., but one accidentally set off a truck alarm about 5:30 a.m. right outside our window. "I might as well get up," said Andy. "I'm not sleeping any more now."
I grunted and rolled over. Burying my head didn't help either.

A deserted house along Route #117 is stark evidence of the
difficulties of making a living as a farmer in the high desert.

We were on the road by 7:00 a.m., just about the last car to leave the motel parking lot. "It's a good thing," said Andy. "In 14 miles we lose an hour, since Arizona is not on Daylight Savings Time and New Mexico is." By 9:45 a.m.--New Mexico time-- the car thermometer read 45 degrees. Early AND cold! That's not fair!El Malpais warmed 10 degrees as we neared the Cebolleta Mesa along Route #117. "This will be our test case to see what and how much is actually closed down," said Andy. "The main road goes right through the El Malpais National Monument, and much of the land is Bureau of Land Management. There are hikes at pullouts along the road. We'll see what impact the government shutdown has here," he explained. We already knew our hopes of exploring Bandelier and Mesa Verde were in vain.

Cebolleta Mesa, part of the El Malpais
Conservation Area, rises in the distance.

It only took another few minutes before all our questions were answered. The turn into Lava Flow Overlook was blocked by a large No Entry sign, and yellow tape fluttered from across the interpretive welcome sign. We lose!
But the South Narrows picnic area was open. "It looks like areas under the auspices of the Bureau of Land Management are still available, like the Narrows Rim Trail from the picnic area," said Andy. The ranger drove past as we pulled out. "I wonder what they would do if we parked and hiked," mused Andy.

Although South Narrows parking area was open, we admire
the scenery and move on, nervous about patrolling rangers.

"They can't ticket you," I told him. "There are no signs prohibiting entrance or parking. Would they tow? That would be terrible. It doesn't say 'Closed' here, so I don't think we could be punished for hiking."
Andy wasn't convinced.
Sun lit the top of the mesa as we drove South Narrows Road through The Narrows. We continued on the winding road through The Narrows.

At La Ventana, The Window, big fuzzy black
caterpillars miss the view as they inch across
the trail in search of richer feeding grounds. 

La Ventana, The Window, offered a half-mile walk to a natural arch in the Zuni sandstone. I read the interpretive sign. This area of twisted tan and white pillars and cliffs started during the Jurassic Period when huge dunes of sand collected and were buried. Dinosaurs stayed near the lush natural oases. Thousands of years later, water seeping into the cracks of the now compressed, hardened and uplifted sand created the formations.
We drove past the entrance to Sandstone Bluffs Overlook. It was closed, and so was the BLM Ranger Station. "It looks like park sites are closed, but overall the BLM sites are open," said Andy. "They just don't have the personnel to shut them all down." We were able to see what was labeled El Malpais National Conservation Area, operated by the BLM, but not areas that were part of the El Malpais National Monument, operated by the National Park Service. Bureaucracy! But at least it wasn't all closed. But our reservations for Mesa Verde would have to change.
minimum speed. Andy chose the right lane.

Named for a natural arch worn in the Zuni
sandstone, The Window allows sun to
stream through at midday.

Driving into Albuquerque today was certainly different from our trip into the city on Route #I-40 three years ago, when a westbound tractor-trailer jack-knifed, causing a 12-mile backup the other direction. Even though the noon-time temperature today was only 61 degrees, the surrounding landscape of sage and grass was green. On our first trip in early 2011, we hit a blizzard out of Gallup and drove some of I-40 in blinding snow. It wasn't a matter of getting off the highway either--even after more than a hundred miles of roadway was closed from Gallup to Flagstaff. That was because none of the New Mexico exits had been plowed. Not so today. Today traffic zipped along toward downtown. In fact, left lane traffic observed a 65 m.p.h. minimum speed.
At the Route 66 Travel Center, gas was $2.999 per gallon. "For that price, I'll fill up the trunk!" said Andy.

In front of the Albuquerque Museum in Old town, an impressive
bronze commemorates Spanish exploration from 1598.

We used our Marianne GPS to find Casa Rondena Winery and then Gruet Winery. Both offered tastings for $7.00 a flight. Our primary interest was picking up a gift or two. As we drove toward Old Town Albuquerque, we found St. Clair Winery, as well. It was advertised as the largest winery in New Mexico. Balloon Festival celebrants were everywhere by this time. Until a couple days ago, we didn't realize that tomorrow would be the start of the annual 10-day festival.
Andy found a place to park on the street near the Albuquerque Museum. That gave us a chance to look at the sculptures there and to walk around Old Town and browse in the blocks of gift shops that line the square. A group of Native Americans played pipes on one street corner, a marimba quartet performed in the gazebo, and a guitarist strummed his instrument across the square.  Tourists jammed the sidewalks. Only the chilly breeze discouraged lingering. And by the time the sun dipped behind the buildings, it was downright cold outside.
Camino Real had thousands of specialty items imported from Mexico, from yard and garden to blankets and wall hangings. "Thirty percent off," said the clerk, "and we want to sell all of it."
But carrying such treasures on the plane home will never work!
We hurried back to the Days Inn and Suites near the airport, our "free" accommodations thanks to Andy's careful tabulation of motel points. "Please help yourself to some soup," greeted the desk clerk. "Warm your innards."
It was spicy Mexican tortilla soup, thick and rich and warm going down. What a special treat!
"We're new owners," explained the manager.
"You've got a great review," I promised.