Stepping Carefully

"Hands down, this is the time of year to travel," said Andy, as we set out from Cambria for a hike at a pullout 20 miles north. It rained last night in Cambria, and there were still clouds in the mountains, but California Route #1, originally completed in 1937 and named Theodore Roosevelt Highway, was in the clear.

We had Silver Creek Falls all to ourselves. Huge boulders at the bottom of a steep, slippery slope concealed three major falls and a few smaller ones. We picked our way along the unmarked trail, stepping gingerly over the wet leaves and oak roots and around boulders and poison oak patches. The reward was a hidden cove with cascades tumbling down the cliff face a quarter mile from the road.

We stopped once more at Elephant Seal Cove. Even though many animals slept, lots more bobbed in the water and challenged each other. Guide Paul said, "This colony started when 16 came ashore on Thanksgiving Day 20 years ago. Last year we recorded 4,200 births on this beach to a colony of 17,000. The pup survival rate is about 40%, and we know they come back to the beach of their birth, just like the salmon, so here the species is doing well."

"I read they eat mostly squid," said Andy.

"Yes, that and small fish. They are deep water feeders," answered Paul.

"Squid," said Andy, grinning. "They must be Italian. They love calamari."

On the other side of the cove, Guide Erlene passed out E-Seal News fliers. "Internet said 19 came ashore originally, but regardless whether it was 16 or 19, they are surviving," she agreed, "and since they aren't needed for oil now, the prognosis for the species is good."

We stopped at Hearst Castle to check out the tours and book our tickets for tomorrow.

Then we walked Moonstone Beach in Cambria, first along the boardwalk and then picking careful steps on the rocks between tidal pools as the waves receded. Andy spotted a large starfish, probably eight inches in diameter, tucked under a rock crevice.
In another pool washed by sea water, several sea urchins clung to the sides of the rocks. Snails moved slowly along the bottom and mussel shells floated up and down as gentle waves lapped in. Rich in life, the shore offered new discoveries at each careful step.

Farther south, Morro Rock, a volcanic plug, identifies the town of Morro Bay from miles away. Connected to the mainland by a man-made causeway, the monolith has been a historical landmark since the Portola Expedition of 1580 and an ecological preserve as a nesting place for the endangered peregrine falcon.

We browsed in some shops along Main Street in town, walked the sand beach and scaled the uneven boulders of the bayside groin. Strenuous rock hopping along the top of the groin demanded some serious attention and a good sense of balance for me, but Andy's firm hand kept me moving and prevented any slips. It even gave a different perspective for photography, and we didn't even get wet!

With houses hugging the volcanic slopes and streets lined with palm trees, Morro Bay looks like a Mediterranean village.
Cambria Pine Lodge opened the holiday season with a garden light show after dark. Thousands of tiny colored Christmas lights decorated shapes of animals, people, trees and archways throughout the grounds for a beautiful nighttime spectacle.