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Sunday, October 16, 2011

GATEWAY WEST--Trip 2

A glorious fall morning greeted us as we headed from Hazelwood, Missouri, to downtown St. Louis, the Gateway to the West.
Andy hoped to avoid the crowds by touring early Sunday morning and sightseeing at the Gateway Arch as soon as it opened. I wanted to avoid construction delays and a second excursion by accident into East St. Louis. He checked the map, then drove. I checked the map, then navigated. We not only found the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial and landmark, but we had half an hour to walk the grounds among brilliantly turned trees and were seated in the first eight-car ride to the top. The view was amazing on the clear fall day.
The design was the brainchild of Finnish American Eero Saarinen, who won the national competition of 1947. Dedicated on October 28, 1965, the Arch celebrated Thomas Jefferson's Louisiana Purchase that opened the American West. Ironically, Jefferson's commission to Napoleon in 1800 had been authorized to offer 15 million dollars for just the port of New Orleans since French, Spanish and British squabbles were disrupting the flow of American trade on the Mississippi River. Instead, the purchase doubled the size of the nation.
In addition, construction of the Arch revitalized downtown St. Louis. From up on top we could see the lazy river and the spacious lawns below, as well as the skyscrapers of a more thriving city, sparkling in the early morning sun.
"It's 630 feet high at the top and 630 feet wide at the base," said Ranger David.
"It frames the Court House, and I especially like the way the shadow falls around the American flag," he added.
Andy and I looked out the window where he pointed. We could feel a slight sway as the morning wind gusted. 

From the top of Gateway Arch, we can look out on the world.
"There is a built-in give of 18 inches in total from the center," said Ranger David. "That's nine inches east and nine inches west, but most of the gusts this morning are blowing out of the south. You won't feel too much from that just now, but it is supposed to change direction later today. The Arch can sustain 150 m.p.h. winds."
He took our picture at the center panel sign. A hatch on the north end of the center panel opened to the outside top. "Once a year a maintenance man climbs out to change the red bulb that warns aircraft," explained Ranger David. He laughed. "A guy did it about a week ago, and I missed it. As a photographer, that's the shot I would appreciate."
I knew exactly what he meant, but I certainly wouldn't climb out to take that shot, even with a harness. Just the slight sway inside was dizzying.
In the museum we wandered through life-size exhibits depicting the taming and settlement of the West--a Conestoga wagon, a full size longhorn, an Indian tepee, a grazing pony, a stage coach. We were part of the Western scene, territory so familiar to us from previous trips.
We stopped to listen to the haunting melodies of the Indian flute, as Ranger Jim played "The Ghost Dancer." He had found an authentic version and transcribed some of the music.
I could have listened and browsed for hours and read every sign with interest.
But Andy had a list to check off and other activities in store.
It was time to head out. Ironically, to head West.

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