NASHVILLE DOWNTOWN--Trip 2

With our base at a Quality Inn on the outskirts of Nashville, we explored the city itself on a warm, blue-sky October day.
Deserted, the downtown government blocks should have offered easy parking early Saturday morning, but all the streets said "permit only" or "tow away zone." Meters allowed ten minutes for a quarter with a one-hour maximum. Finally, we found a free spot on the corner of Rosa Parks Avenue.

The Capitol building rose majestically from the hilltop. We climbed the 64 steps to the top of the Observation Deck a block away and admired the view of the city around us--the Capitol grounds, the Davidson County Public Building and Court House, the modern AT&T tower with its twin spires, the War Memorial Plaza, the tomb of Tennessee-native President James Polk, who was actually born on the frontier in the North Carolina territory.

Down below the reflecting pools glistened in the morning sun. "I'm glad we parked where we did," said Andy an hour later, as we stopped at the 2011 sculpture Exploration and Discovery #3: To the Moon by artist Ken Rowe.

A huge bronze paid tribute to President Andrew Jackson. "He probably won the Presidency because of his popularity after the War of 1812," said Andy. "What's ironic is that Jackson's victory over the British came two weeks after we signed the Peace Treaty. He just didn't know it, because news traveled slowly then."

The Farmers' Market had a vibrant array of color--gigantic pots of mums in autumn orange, yellow, rust and purple; gourds and pumpkins too large to carry; and fresh produce of every shape and variety. We bought cherry jam for $4.00 a jar, but there were oh so many more tempting goodies.

Nearby on the Bicentennial Mall, a plaza park built in 1996 to celebrate Tennessee's 200 years as a state, elementary school-age boys lugged in gear and dressed for a football game. Excited young cheerleaders with pompoms tagged along. "Go Cobras!" they yelled, jumping up and down to rally the boys.

The stairs, 143 of them, climbed back up to the mid-level Capitol Plaza. And another 124 steps took us to the top on the way back to Little Red.

Following a city map, I directed Andy along Eighth Avenue to Music Row. At Owen Bradley Park, some volunteers for a suicide prevention walk offered to take our picture. They told us that supposedly someone commits suicide every 16 minutes. It's hard to believe anything can be so bad or that death could hold any allure on a gorgeous day like today in Nashville.

Across the street Andy found a plastic crown hanging from the statue in Buddy Killen Circle. "They don't need this," he said. "Those figures are already nude."
"Why don't you give it to the little girl with the Suicide Prevention volunteers," I suggested.
And he did.

"Queen for a day," her grandma pronounced, bestowing the jeweled headpiece with the pomp and circumstance of a coronation.
"Now you need to direct me to the Parthenon," ordered Andy.

We paid our Senior Citizen entrance fee and headed into the museum.

The highlight of the 1897 Tennessee Centennial and International Exposition was the full-scale replica of the Parthenon. Constructed of brick, wood lath and plaster, it represented the city's reputation as the "Athens of the South." Even the Doric columns, sculptures and friezes replicated the Greek temple. Reports suggested that 1.8 million attended the Exhibition, paying 50 cents each for adults and 25 cents for children.

Then the Tennessee Parthenon housed an art exhibition that included 1,172 pieces from all over the world. The building was so popular that the city left the temporary structure standing after the Exposition. In 1920, faced with crumbling pediments and decaying plaster, Nashville authorized reconstruction with permanent materials. The new structure opened to the public in 1931, attracting more than 10,000 visitors from 46 states and 12 foreign countries during its first month.
The Lower Floor housed the historical display, as well as the art collection. We read about the Exhibition and marveled at the huge reproduced photographs of Exhibition events and entertainments. A Cyclorama of the Battle of Gettysburg, not so many years before, interested the men, and everyone marveled at the sham battle reenactment of Little Big Horn. Highwire artist Arion walked and bicycled between two buildings on a live electrical wire, much to the pleasure of admiring crowds. The Giant Seesaw, 208 feet in the air, attracted the thrill seekers, and Shooting the Chutes, a huge water slide, drew hundreds. It was reported that when the pond at the base was drained, several sets of false teeth were found at the bottom. The Exhibition even featured shows like "The Mysteries of Thanatos" with live dryads, nymphs and satyrs in full Greek garb.
"Did you see the Winslow Homer?" asked Andy as we met up in one oil painting display area. In other displays, we found names like George Inness, Paul Harmon, Alan LeQuire and Elithe Vedder. James Cowan donated 71 of the paintings from his collection, because the millionaire had found the Nashville community particularly appreciative, friendly and warm.
Photography was allowed in the Upper Level. There Alan LeQuire's 41' 10" statue of Athena dominated. Modeled after the original that was created in the fifth century B.C. by sculptor Phidias, Athena filled the nave.
The goddess of wisdom, prudent warfare and the useful arts, balanced a six-foot Nike, the winged goddess of victory, who saved Athens from the Persians in 480 B.C. Historical evidence suggested the original was made of cast gold and ivory, assembled on a wooden armature. Like the original, LeQuire's reproduction dwarfed visitors. But it will be more lasting--gypsum cement and chopped fiberglass bonded onto a structural steel frame--no wood to rot, a dearth of valuable materials that tempt thieves, and protection via electronic devices and hired surveillance, instead of the foretold wrath of imaginary deities and maybe some live-in priestesses.

Centennial Park was once a part of a 640-acre farm, purchased in 1783 for 50 cents an acre by pioneers. It was used as a staging and assembly area during the War of 1812 and the Civil War and had become a race course and fairgrounds before serving as site of the 1897 Centennial Exposition celebrating Tennessee's statehood. We sat at a park picnic table and munched on fresh apples.

Parking presented a challenge in the Music District, since most lots charged $10. With a bit of determination, Andy found a spot near the river on a side street. "Permit required" Monday through Friday, the area offered free street parking on weekends. We slipped Little Red into the last available spot.

For five hours we walked the downtown streets of Music Row, stopping at the bars, looking in the shop windows, sitting and listening to bands performing, watching the street musicians.

Whiskey Bent Saloon featured Kinsey Rose on guitar. We even took a seat for a while as she played country and western favorites for an appreciative audience. The Stage rollicked with a four-piece country band. Blond-haired dancers passed the tip jar and urged onlookers to contribute. "We make our living from tips," prodded the lead singer. At Robert's Western World, a four-piece blue grass band struck up a Johnny Cash tune. Layla's Bluegrass Hillbilly and Country Inn featured a five-piece ensemble singing a mournful ballad. We stood through one song and then moved on down the street. The Second Fiddle and Tootsies both had country Western groups with guitars and drums for easy listening. A raucous honkytonk four-piece group entertained at Legends Corner, and Chelsea danced around the floor singing Reba McIntyre at Cadillac Ranch. "I wish she would stand still for a minute," I told Andy. "I like the backup band with the rockin' country style, but she keeps touching and flouncing her hair and spinning in circles like a little kid. She needs a lesson in stage presence."

Today was Zombie Parade Day downtown. A couple hundred teens and adults, and even a few children, all dressed as zombies covered in fake blood walked up and down the sidewalks on both sides of Broadway. We never did figure out why.

After checking out all the boot stores, souvenir shops and tee-shirt stands, we went back to Whiskey Bent Saloon. By this time Jacob Stiefel had joined Kinsey Rose. The two performed for the next couple hours, alone and in duet. "I'll tell them a joke," she said.

"I'm not sure they will like your jokes," he answered.

"No matter. What did the fish say when he swam into the wall?" she asked the audience. No one answered. "Dam!"

A song or two later, she had another joke. "I hooked up with the mushroom man last night."

Stiefel groaned. He knew what was coming.

"He was such a fun guy (fungi)."
"Yeah," said Stiefel with another groan. "It took me a while to get that one the first time too!"
At Plaza Bar and Grill outside of town, Edgar served us with flair and class, Mexican dinner, complete with margaritas and deep fried ice cream. It was a treat worth waiting 12 hours for, and a perfect end to a delightful day.